I wanted to feel the magic of ancestry. At the top of the hill overlooking vast green fields dotted with thatched cottages, we found the ruins of what...was once a monks’ abbey. Grass and weeds had grown through its foundation and vines twined their way around half-standing walls. All at once, I felt a hush and a pause as I surveyed the scene. Something about those ruined abbeys and castles held for me a beautiful mysticism that swept through my whole body. I turned to face my husband. God he. ”“That’s what the book said, listing the correct octave and pitch.”“OK. Pluck each string for me, in succession, and we’ll see how it sounds.”I did as she asked and she nodded approval.“Good,” she said. “Let me show you how to play your first chord. This is done by pressing individual strings against the frets or wood on the neck. We’ll start with E-minor.”For the next forty minutes, she taught me to play three chords - A-major, E-minor, and C. My fingers quickly became tired, and started. More

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