When we're paddling the outskirts of the waves, it really hits me that we're here, surfing. Then I look to Ethan next to me and smile, because none of...this would have been possible without him. He knew I would love this, and he smiles back. Sitting upright on our boards, we wait for a wave, and when one starts to break close to us, Tommy catches it first. Damn is he graceful. I'm sure I won't look like that on my board, but when I finally do catch one, it's on. My toes an inch from the back,. "I noticed she bit her lip and looked pensive, but her legs never faulted. Six quick baby steps on her knees led her directly before me. My mother smelled like a flowering window box soaked with fresh rain. Her breasts were so beautiful, I had to swallow to keep my heart from leaping clear of my throat. How could dark, pointed, round nipples standing on pink pillows of fat cause me so much excitement? They were my mother's, and they were the same breasts I tasted in my first years of life. I. More

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